Road trip in Senegal

On a road trip in Senegal, Dakar’s nightlife shines and Saint-Louis sings

 

A woman stands on a busy street in Dakar, Senegal. Photo by Edgar de Bono

A woman stands on a busy street in Dakar, Senegal. Photo by Edgar de Bono

 

DAKAR, Senegal — From dizzying Dakar to vibrant Saint-Louis, Senegal pulsates with rich culture, history and charm.

If you want to experience it all — from bustling cities to sleepy, seaside villages — hop in a rental car, charge up your favorite navigation device or app, brush up on your conversational French, and start your road trip across Africa’s colorful western coast.

 

Dakar for the music, art lover

Senegal’s largest city perched on the tip of the Cap-Vert peninsula is an ideal starting place for your journey.

Spend the afternoons filling your suitcases with trinkets and T-shirts from the capital’s many frenetic street markets. For a more serene shopping experience, head to La Galerie Antenna. This African art mecca boasts an impressive collection of sculptures, paintings, masks and jewelry from across the continent.

Rest up and head out after midnight to experience Dakar’s thriving music scene at a local bar or club. After your late night, regroup by the beach at one of Dakar’s luxury hotels: Terrou-Bi,  or Radisson Blu Hotel.

While most of Senegal is surprisingly drivable, Dakar traffic is not for the faint of heart. Be prepared for a general disregard of road signs and discombobulating roundabouts. Some rental car packages include drivers, or one can be arranged through your hotel. Or hop in taxis for short trips. They’re abundant and inexpensive. Be sure to check rates with a local before hailing a ride and negotiate the fare with your driver in advance.

The beachside pool at the Terrou-Bi hotel in Dakar, Senegal. From dizzying Dakar to vibrant Saint-Louis, Senegal pulsates with rich culture, history and charm. If you want to experience it all — from bustling cities to sleepy, seaside villages — hop in a rental car, charge up your favorite navigation device or app, brush up on your conversational French, and start your road trip across Africa’s colorful western coast.Dakar, Senegal. From dizzying Dakar to vibrant Saint-Louis, Senegal pulsates with rich culture, history and charm. If you want to experience it all -- from bustling cities to sleepy, seaside villages -- hop in a rental car, charge up your favorite navigation device or app, brush up on your conversational French, and start your road trip across Africa’s colorful western coast.(AP Photo/Nicole Evatt)

The beachside pool at the Terrou-Bi hotel in Dakar, Senegal. From dizzying Dakar to vibrant Saint-Louis, Senegal pulsates with rich culture, history and charm. If you want to experience it all — from bustling cities to sleepy, seaside villages — hop in a rental car, charge up your favorite navigation device or app, brush up on your conversational French, and start your road trip across Africa’s colorful western coast.Dakar, Senegal. From dizzying Dakar to vibrant Saint-Louis, Senegal pulsates with rich culture, history and charm. If you want to experience it all — from bustling cities to sleepy, seaside villages — hop in a rental car, charge up your favorite navigation device or app, brush up on your conversational French, and start your road trip across Africa’s colorful western coast.(AP Photo/Nicole Evatt)

 

 

 

Goree Island for the history buff

An afternoon (at least) spent exploring the history and architecture of Ile de Goree is a must when visiting Dakar. The UNESCO World Heritage site was a shipping point for African slaves during the 16th through 19th centuries. The island’s most famous and sobering attraction, Maison des Esclaves (Slave House), has had many high-profile visitors, including President Obama in 2013. It is now a museum and memorial site serving as symbol for the larger slave trade throughout Africa.

You can easily book a tour guide when you arrive, but the small, tranquil island is quite walkable on your own. Take in the scenic ocean views, colorful, crumbling architecture, shops and street vendors before dining on fresh fish at the hilltop restaurant, Dolce Vita.

Ferries leave regularly from Dakar’s main port and cost $9 roundtrip.

 

 

A statue at the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) Memorial on Goree Island

A statue at the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) Memorial on Goree Island

 

 

 

STREET IN GORÉE - TOWN WITHOUT CARS / MICKAËL T, FLICKR,

STREET IN GORÉE – TOWN WITHOUT CARS / MICKAËL T, FLICKR,

Saint-Louis for day-trippers

Craving a quick trip outside the city? Head 200 miles north to the French colonial settlement Saint-Louis.

This lively fishing community connects to the historic city center, a small island in the Senegal river brimming with colonial charm. Reminiscent of New Orleans, Saint-Louis boasts boutique hotels, trendy restaurants, galleries and an annual jazz festival.

Don’t miss Senegalese designer Rama Diaw’s boutique, which features colorful and wearable clothing and accessories for women.

If you have the time, head farther north to the lush wetlands of the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, another UNESCO World Heritage site.

On your way back to Dakar stop by Lake Retba, Senegal’s “pink lake,” about an hour outside of the capital. The water may appear more murky than rosy depending on the season and time of your visit.

 

 

St. Louis center,. Heavy traffic There's not much traffic in the centre of St. Louis -- just as many animals as taxis. Photo by Helen Lloyd

St. Louis center,. Heavy traffic There’s not much traffic in the centre of St. Louis — just as many animals as taxis. Photo by Helen Lloyd

 

Glamping and wildlife

Fathala Wildlife Reserve, offers glamping, with three-course meals and luxury air-conditioned tents, near the Gambia border, about 160 miles (258 kilometers) from Dakar, depending on your route. Excursions range from jeep safaris to mangrove boat tours. The attraction started as a conservation project for an antelope, the Giant Derby eland, but animals from other parts of Africa can be seen here too such as zebras and giraffes.

The lone rhinoceros is known for his nightly pilgrimage to the smartly-placed watering hole in front of the dining area. It’s dinner with a show.

 

 

 

By Nicole Evatt | Published by The Associated Press on October 10, 2016

 

 

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